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From the book

Route 6 – Paris to Provence

Melun to Avignon. About 840km. July/August 2011

The road south from Paris to le Midi is one of the great thoroughfares of Europe – travelled by Grand Tourists, artists and holidaymakers bound for the sun – and a gastronomic pilgrimage through Burgundy, the Lyonnais and the Rhone Valley. Declining the chance to spend half a day pedalling through the Paris suburbs, we caught the RER to St Fargeau, near Melun, and set off from there through Fontainebleau forest, followed by a long day’s ride to Chablis and Burgundy wine country. After a spell on the towpath at the top of the Canal de Bourgogne and a tasting lunch in Puligny Montrachet we skirted Lyon to the east (the flatter side) and made our way south through the Drome with more wine tourism chez Chapoutier at Tain L’Hermitage. Entering Provence via the beautiful Col de Tartaiguille, we had time for a tour of perched villages and lavender country that brought us to the herb market town of Nyons; and took the Dentelles de Montmirail wine road to Avignon via Gigondas and Beaumes de Venise.

Route 6 map: Paris to AvignonOpen the map in Google My Maps

Information:

Seine-et-Marne: www.tourisme77.fr

Burgundy: www.crt-bourgogne.fr

Rhone-Alpes: www.rhonealpes-tourisme.com

Ain: www.ain-tourisme.com

Drome: www.ladrometourisme.com

Trains: www.eurostar.co.uk; www.raileurope.co.uk; www.voyages-sncf.com

La Cour des Adieux, Fontainebleau
La Cour des Adieux, Fontainebleau
Fruitful Burgundy. The covered market in Sens.
Fruitful Burgundy. The covered market in Sens.
Chablis vineyard walks
Chablis vineyard walks
Noyers
Noyers
Noyers, La Maison du Schematisme
Noyers, La Maison du Schematisme
Canal de Bourgogne, Grand Pré lock
Canal de Bourgogne, Grand Pré lock
Canal de Bourgogne near Pouilly en Auxois
Canal de Bourgogne near Pouilly en Auxois
The Cote de Beaune at Meursault
The Cote de Beaune at Meursault
“Now for the real test.” (Lunch a little out of focus by this stage.) Chez Olivier Leflaive, Puligny Montrachet
“Now for the real test.” (Lunch a little out of focus by this stage.) Chez Olivier Leflaive, Puligny Montrachet
Mosaic floor at St Philibert, Tournus
Mosaic floor at St Philibert, Tournus
Georges Blanc’s Ancienne Auberge, Vonnas. The proof of the poulet is in the eating
Georges Blanc’s Ancienne Auberge, Vonnas. The proof of the poulet is in the eating
Pérouges
Pérouges
Body-drying. The Y-front foulard
Body-drying. The Y-front foulard
Jaboulet Hermitage La Chapelle. Special occasions only
Jaboulet Hermitage La Chapelle. Special occasions only
The Rhone at Tournon
The Rhone at Tournon
Chapoutier, the uptake
Chapoutier, the uptake
Chapoutier, the intake. Tain L’Hermitage
Chapoutier, the intake. Tain L’Hermitage
Before the pass
Before the pass
Lavender or lavandin?
Lavender or lavandin?
At the pass
At the pass
Nyons
Nyons
The Dentelles wine road
The Dentelles wine road
Le Ventoux, brooding and accusatory
Le Ventoux, brooding and accusatory
We ignored it
We ignored it
Cooling off period in the Ouvèze
Cooling off period in the Ouvèze
Avignon, Pont Bénézet
Avignon, Pont Bénézet

Route 6: Paris to Avignon

Stories from this route

The cover of France On Two Wheels by Adam Ruck: a red and white signpost, a bicycle and vineyards

The book

France on Two Wheels, by Adam Ruck

Six long bike rides for the bon vivant cyclist, published by Short Books in April 2012 and reprinted (with a few corrections and updates) in March 2014. This site is a companion and extension to the guide.

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