Skip to content

From the book

Route 3 – La Bastide to Arcachon

From the Cevennes to the Atlantic, via Robert Louis Stevenson’s donkey trail, the Tarn Gorges, the Lot and Sauternes. About 710km. May 2011

By train up into the wilds of the Massif Central, as far as the highest stop on the Cévenol line, La Bastide Puylaurent; on our bikes from there over the Mont Lozère, down the Tarn as far as Albi, up to the Lot, across to Sauternes and finally in great heat to the bay of Arcachon.

Reaching the start took us ages – via a ferry from Dover and an overnight stay in Calais – but an early start from St Pancras could see you in La Bastide for supper (such as it might be). Once we got going, and over the hills, we loved this ride for its scenic and sightseeing variety: a glove factory, a Roquefort tasting, prehistoric cave paintings, Château d’Yquem, a bird reserve and a swim at the foot of the mighty Dune du Pilat, Europe’s biggest sandhill. Our hotel selection was good too: La Lozerette in Cocures, Le Sombral in St Cirq Lapopie and Le Resinier in Le Barp would be in our top ten.

Route 3 map: from the Cevennes to the AtlanticOpen the map in Google My Maps

Information:

Nord/Pas-de-Calais: www.northernfrance-tourism.com

Auvergne: www.auvergne-tourisme.info

Languedoc-Roussillon: www.sunfrance.com

Midi-Pyrénées: www.tourisme-midi-pyrenees.com

Aquitaine: www.tourisme-aquitaine.fr

Ferries (Dover/Calais): P&O www.poferries.com

Trains: www.raileurope.co.uk; www.voyages-sncf.com

Canelle, Mousse-Cafe and friends on the Goulet. It was a big hill for them too
Canelle, Mousse-Cafe and friends on the Goulet. It was a big hill for them too

Canelle, Mousse-Cafe and friends on the Montagne du Goulet. It was a big hill for them too.

towards the Finiels
A pause at 1300m
Good off-piste grazing
Good off-piste grazing
an important watershed
an important watershed
Le Pont de Montvert
Le Pont de Montvert
Morally superior bread. Florac
Morally superior bread. Florac
Ispagnac: a place of worship
Ispagnac: a place of worship
not recommended, unless the bottle is plastic
not recommended, unless the bottle is plastic
St Chely de Tarn
St Chely de Tarn
Chateau de la Caze
Chateau de la Caze
Causse, Millau
Causse, Millau
Domaine de St Esteve, Millau. Good view of viaduct
Domaine de St Esteve, Millau. Good view of viaduct
Causse, Millau
Causse, Millau
Brousse-le-Chateau
Brousse-le-Chateau
Cordes Beaulieu en Rouergue a swim in the Lot: slimy, but still good St Cirq Lapopie Prayssac: déesse ex machina Near Duras On the Canal du Midi Yquem Arcachon, front de mer Le Teich bird reserve. Spo

Cordes

Beaulieu en Rouergue

a swim in the Lot: slimy, but still good

St Cirq Lapopie

Prayssac: déesse ex machina

Near Duras

On the Canal du Midi

Yquem

Arcachon, front de mer

Le Teich bird reserve. Spot the godwit

Route 3 – La Bastide to Arcachon
Route 3 – La Bastide to Arcachon
Route 3 – La Bastide to Arcachon
Route 3 – La Bastide to Arcachon
Route 3 – La Bastide to Arcachon
Route 3 – La Bastide to Arcachon
Route 3 – La Bastide to Arcachon
Route 3 – La Bastide to Arcachon
Route 3 – La Bastide to Arcachon

Route 3: La Bastide to Arcachon

Stories from this route

Route 3

Roquefort

Until Millau acquired its motorway bridge in 2004, the town was best known for gloves and sheep’s cheese from the nearby village of Roquefort…

Route 3

Yquem

Is Yquem the greatest of all wines? The château is certainly outstanding and no one who has seen a picture of it would have…

The cover of France On Two Wheels by Adam Ruck: a red and white signpost, a bicycle and vineyards

The book

France on Two Wheels, by Adam Ruck

Six long bike rides for the bon vivant cyclist, published by Short Books in April 2012 and reprinted (with a few corrections and updates) in March 2014. This site is a companion and extension to the guide.